FASHION / June, 2020
Designer Susanne Bisovsky -
“Paris is Haute Couture. Vienna is Viennese chic”
Paris is Haute Couture, Vienna, that´s Viennese Chic”. Susanne Bisovsky loves Vienna and creates unique fashion. The salon is located in a former silk manufactury, a remarkable and historic part of Vienna called “Brillantengrund” (brilliant ground), where exclusive models are designed and produced .
Susanne Bisovsky, born in Linz, has enchanted the fashion industry with her skin couture.
“Paris is Haute Couture. Viennese chic is Vienna ”- the talented designer is often cited because she loves the city of the Danube like no other and pays homage to the imperial charm of Vienna.
Roses, lace and tulle are all ingredients that women love.
Susanne Bisovsky studied with Vivienne Westwood and founded her own label in 1996. It is composed of Susanne Bisovsky and Joseph Bonwit Gerger since 2000 and operates from the creative district of the 7th district of Vienna.
This is Bisovsky's fashion: "Nothing is more fashionable than the fashion highlight of the time" and so she creates her own, independent, idiosyncratic and extravagant fashion with her collection that inspires us!
In her work as a fashion designer, Susanne Bisovsky deals exclusively with traditional clothing and its transfer through reinterpretation into a contemporary context - unique and captivatingly consistent. With success she stretches from traditional costumes to the style of Viennese chic and exciting avant-garde. Exclusive collections and models are produced in small numbers in-house.
Bisovsky is about the memory of the costume and the telling of textile stories, the decoding of the symbolism inherent in the costume and the tension in breaking traditional guidelines, the tenderness in the use of materials and the high art of dressmaking, the creation of the consistent form.
Anyone who is just about to push Susanne Bisovsky into the corner of the weird dressmaker is wrong. A look at the references is sufficient.
Helmut Lang, JC Castelbajac and Kathleen Madden are listed, Swarovski, Sportalm Kitzbühel and Austrian Embroideries.
A glance at the magic, the elegance and the craftsmanship of their pieces and collections is enough.
The claim to uniqueness and haute couture is justified.
Bisovsky is used to taking a stand when it comes to the issue of traditional costume and the tightrope walk between home ideology, festival tourism and the elderly. “The concerns are understandable, but I think it makes more sense to deal with the topic sensitively than to have it dealt with and pushed away. Costume is not static. And for the skeptical, I deliberately offer the curve over the Viennese girl. ”
When playing with the combination of familiar and unfamiliar, "even absurd materials, if they are visually correct", Susanne Bisovsky breaks the popular idea of traditional costume with lust and meticulousness.
This can be latex, into which pieces of lace are dipped, or fragments of biker clothing. A tablecloth crocheted of gold yarn is consistently processed into a T-shirt, or a top made of porcelain-white mosaic stones in a Viennese rose pattern.
The designer likes to stay in her old Vienna domicile - living space, workshop and salon in one, clearly structured with a mixture of collectibles for traditional kitsch, rose patterns and Viennese salon. Susanne Bisovsky and her apartment as the epitome of interior cannot be separated. As in her work, tradition and elegance are virtuously countered by unusual patterns and materials.
On the walls of the kitchen there is an optical orgy of cans, hats and pictures full of burning hearts. "These walls are like protective wallpaper," the designer looks around lovingly, "and the cans make me happy."
Salon and work room breathe Viennese chic and hide the immense hoard of materials and a furious collection of the most beautiful Bisovsky dresses on bars, in boxes, behind curtains. That makes your heart beat faster! You can literally hear the crackling of the valuable materials and a whisper of tender, wild stories. How does it live in a place that exactly reflects the label's corporate design? “It is essential for me to be surrounded by optically relevant objects. I actually need access to the things I work with day and night. Things have to come together! "
Voila! A boldly patterned, Hungarian shepherd's stocking hangs on the pole and has found an elegant, high-heeled boot - a masterpiece by partner and co-scout Joseph Gerger, who is a shoe designer.
She loves the Victorian style, so dignified and romantic.
Susanne Bisovsky does not show the dirndl as an apparently erotic garment with a low neckline and emphasis on the hip, but propagates covering and covering - as a sign of quiet eroticism and dignity towards the body. "I use the surface of the skin to pattern it, so I create a different, second skin. I am told that these parts are highly erotic, precisely because they close everything. " she says.
Nevertheless, the wearer herself resigns at Bisovsky, the personality of the clothing dominates. A strong magic emanates from the individual models. The viewer sees the coherence and elegance in the creation and feels the dedication and passion of the designer. A feeling of familiarity and security may come up, and the memory of "the romantic idea of going into the summer months and putting the good country air on your clothes."
Susanne Bisovsky is fascinated by the traditional, grown clothing, the constant, the meaningful, the richness of detail, the feel of the material and the due respect.
As the Italian fashion designer Roberto Capucci, a master of clothing for special occasions, says: "Dirndls are simply perfect."
A dirndl (German: [ˈdɪʁndl̩] (listen), is the name of a feminine dress worn in southern Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, Switzerland and Alpine regions of Italy. The dirndl is a folk costume (in German Tracht), and today is generally regarded as traditional dress for women and girls in the Alps. It developed during the 19th century, based on the traditional clothing of Alpine peasants. ( source Wikipedia )