Nanushka - FALL 2021 READY-TO-WEAR
If we can accept that clothing should not be disposable, maybe we can also come around to the idea that concepts and narratives can be revisited. That’s just what Sandra Sandor has done for fall. Having introduced the timely theme of Surrealism for pre-fall, she effectively buids on it this season. True to her minimalist leanings, Sandor relegates the most direct Surrealist references to the collection film, and is more subtle about incorporating them into the clothes. The pleated “wing” flying from the center back of a men’s jacket, for example,is removable. A dramatic top and belt, both with rope fringe to the floor, are effective show pieces; a fringed scarf translates the idea for the real world. Knits are a strong category for Nanushka, and are also lockdown-friendly. For fall the options run from lounge-y (a white ribbed zip top and pants set) to sophisticated (a cape coat with dramatic collar). Also at play is a hard/soft dichotomy, the latter best exemplified by a glamorous pink silky bolero-wrap. Adding texture is a rippled ribbon fabric of recycled polyester (see the sleek hooded top) that Sandor says we’ll be seeing more of. The designer indicates that she’ll also keep doing suiting, which seems counterintuitive in a work from home world. “There is always a debate in the industry about whether tailoring is going to slow down or not, but actually we see potential there, or room in the market still,” said Sandor on a call, “especially in, we call it neo-tailoring.” She gives as an example the collection’s must-have stirrup pants made from a suiting fabric. These have a winning, sporty quality—with legs.