By Mila Blum / New Designers / 6 November , 2018

"J'avoue" - Ready-to-wear made in Paris

 
The brand

  Parisian designer brand open to the world, J'AVOUE offers original high quality models, with modern and neat cuts, in wax fabric.


 

Depending on the model, the wax is used exclusively, or is associated with other fabrics.
Why wax? For its prints, its colors, its warmth and its infinite and inspiring artistic possibilities.
100% made in France, all the work of production, from styling to sewing, is carried out in small Parisian workshops.
The clothes are thus created in a traditional way using all the facets of the French know-how.


 J'AVOUE produces in small series and offers you two to four collections per year, as well as capsule collections, sold through the website .
  

 

The designer

  Marie-Ghyslaine M'BANZA, passionate about sewing and manual creation, decided to let her creativity express itself by launching her brand in 2017.


  Bathing in the universe of wax fabric since her childhood, using this fabric for her creations was for her an evidence.
  You will discover through J'AVOUE her authentic, dynamic, cheerful and colorful universe, strongly influenced by her double Franco-Congolese culture.


  She wishes to make of J'AVOUE an ethical brand, deeply rooted in her era, centered on humanity, beauty and well-being.
 From the sidewalks of Brazzaville through the streets of Paris, Marie-Ghyslaine M'BANZA draws her inspiration from her cosmopolitan environment.
    Tumbled with ideas, she will enrich the range of J'AVOUE as the collections go by, children's clothing, household linen and decorative objects.

The wax

History of wax

     The wax fabric, imprinted with history and traditions, is a printed cotton on both sides, thanks to a wax system that gave it its name.
  Strongly associated with Africa, its origins would nevertheless be Indonesian.
 

   At the end of the 19th century, English and Dutch settlers discovered the method of printing Japanese batiks using wax. They are inspired to print very colorful patterns on cotton fabrics that quickly seduce Europeans.
  The Ghanaian soldiers who fight for the Dutch colonial force are also conquered by these new prints of excellent quality. Once they have completed their mission, they bring the wax to Africa, where it quickly knows a great success.
      The Dutch then embarked on a massive production, followed by the English. These two countries are today the two main manufacturers of wax. Unfortunately, there are only 3 manufacturers of wax on African soil.
   At the crossroads of cultures and peoples, the manufacture of wax comes from the mix of techniques from Indonesian, Dutch and West African origins.
 

   It is nowadays firmly embedded in African culture, to the point of being considered as an African fabric.

 

How wax is made

    The manufacture of wax uses the technique of the traditional batik, but mechanically: a reserve of wax is applied in the interstices of 2 copper rolls "sculpted" according to the prints to be applied.
  The fabric, thus protected by wax patterns, is soaked in indigo dye, then exposed to air. The secondary colors are then applied by hand or printed directly with boards.
  This printing technique allows the fabric to bathe in the dye, the wax is as bright on the front as on the back, without flipside, does not rub and its colors have an exceptional hold.
     The different wax designs often have a meaning attached to them. Some were inspired by very personal stories, others were inspired by the street, and others by a special occasion.


    If the fabric coupons come from factories flanked by simple serial numbers, it is not the same when they arrive in Africa. There they will take names of personalities ("the bag of Michelle Obama" ...), daily situations ("The eye of my rival", "capable husband" ...), or more unlikely the name of a fashionable medecine ("Paracetamol" ...).

 

 
Wax fabric nowadays

  The struggle is difficult in the competition between the Dutch wax fabric and the English wax fabric. And in the meantime, competition from the Chinese wax fabric is growing really fast, the low price of which prevents competition.
  The political and economic fragility of the African countries does not allow them to have a stability of production like that of the major European brands.

   It is possible to witness the disappearance of the African wax if the African countries do not act. The reality is that most of the factories still installed in Africa are partly owned by Dutch, English, Indian or Chinese ...
 

Wax fabric and fashion

 The wax fabric is therefore a symbol of Africa.
  Used on arrival as a loincloth, it has evolved to fit into African fashion, and it now integrates into Western fashion.

Zero waste goal.

  Recyclable materials, as well as all production-induced fabric and paper wastes will be used in the manufacture of accessories and decorative items.

"Learn not to destroy air, water or soil
Otherwise, the laughter promised by their mystery fades away"

 

Jean-Claude Renard

Photographer/AD: ANFEBOS Angel Ferrer

Assistant : David Djian

Fashion editor/styling : Oana von Raven 

Stylist Assistant : MG

Grooming : Alejandra Berrano 

Models : Alex and Thomas 

First London Management 

Shot at L'Atelier & Beyond studio

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